Dear readers;
Just as I was about to send this column in today, I received a pressrelease that might interest a few of you, particularly if you are in needof a good carbon fix.
Campagnolo announced on Thursday that its carbon Hyperon wheels are nowalso available as clinchers.
"The carbon rims for clincher tires turned out to be much more complicatedthan expected," the release noted. "It was not a matter of adapting therim for tubular tires but of designed a completely new rim. The requirementsof a rim for clincher tires are completely different from those of a rimfor tubular tires. Issues of resistance to pressure, temperature and shockhave to be resolved that are absent or at least much reduced in the caseof tubular tires."
To address the different demands of clinchers, Campy completely redesignedthe rim, "using specific materials that could fully meet the new needs."
"The new Hyperon rim for clincher tires withstands high pressure pumping,high temperatures due to braking and the shocks that are typical of theclincher tire profile," the release continued. "Braking: the new brakingsurface involves the use of brake pads that have been designed exclusivelyfor rims onto which clincher tires are fitted."
There will be two versions are available, one featuring a structuralcarbon rim and Record-class black anodized aluminum hub and another, the "Ultra."
The carbon-hubbed Ultra also features ceramic bearings, which, coincidentally, leads us into our first question:
Ceramic bearings?
Dear Lennard,
I was talking with a skateboarding friend, comparing notes on the hardwareaspects of our sports, and he indicated that polished ceramic bearingswere the best out there for serious boarders. Given the differencesin sizes, loads and vulnerability to grim in the bearings would ceramicsmake any noticeable difference on a bike, say either in the hubs or cranks? Has anyone ever tried?
--Jorin
Dear Jorin,
Well, as you see above, Campagnolo will be offering ceramic bearings on the high-end version of its new Hyperon wheels.
The Dutch manufacturer ADA also does ceramic-bearing upgrades for pedals, BBs and hubs, especiallyon those of select riders in the Tour and other major races.
-- Lennard
Here is a response from ADA:
We have been using ceramic bearings for several years now inpro's wheels. Also we tune several other unnamed companies their hubs andalso pedals and BB axles with ceramic bearings. Without naming any othercompany names we can say ceramics have less mass, are more durable andwith the right combination of ceramics and other side coatings a low rollingresistance. It is not always so that if you take all ceramic that you alsohave low resistance. It is a combination of material and wear. Also, theright hardness should be considered as well as the thickness. Like steel,there are lots of different ceramics.
We make special axle as an example for a bottom bracket that spinsjust by blowing on it! We do the same in pedals and wheels.
Cees Beers
ADA
Web: www.ada.prorider.org
E-mail: ada@prorider.org
How's my chainline?
Dear Lennard,
I just purchased your MTB Maintenace manual and really enjoy it. Iam trying to learn to do most repairs myself, so I have a question. My bottom bracket shell is 73mm with a 110mm spindle with a square taperaxle. I want to replace my BB/Crank with a splined version, but the spindleis offered in 113mm. Will this affect my chainline too much?
--Tom
Dear Tom,
It does not necessarily mean it will have a wider chainline. When youreplace both the crank and the BB, you do not know. Often, splined BBsare longer for the same chainline and simply insert further into the arm,rather than making the arm stick out further.
--Lennard
On the level?
Dear Lennard,
I have a seemingly simple technical question that has been giving metrouble for some time- I am hoping to find a simple method for the homemechanic to ensure that both his/her road levers (Campy or STI) are atthe same height/distance on the handlebars. That is, how can I make surethat my levers are even on the handlebar before I apply the housing andbar tape?
I remember seeing an odd clamp-style device at a bike shop that I usedto work at- but I'm sure I’ll never find one of those again. Surely Europe'sbest pro-wrenches have a quick way of making the levers of the pro's bikeseven-steven.
--Marty
Dear Marty,
Place a broomstick or other long, straight object across the two leversand eyeball it to make sure it is parallel with the top straight sectionof the handlebar.
--Lennard
Another reason for a beer
Dear Lennard,
I need some advice regarding seatposts. I have a 2001 Gary Fisher Tassajarathat uses a 29.2mm seatpost and it is very difficult to get a good seatpostthat size. Could I replace it with a 29.0 mm post or should I use a morestandard 27.2 seatpost with a shim?
--Michael
Dear Michael,
You will have to use a shim in either case (a beer can shim shouldwork for the 29.0mm). As long as you shim it to the right size, it shouldnot matter which one you use. Not shimming would stress your binder toomuch, however.
--Lennard
Dear Lennard,
I recently bought a fixed gear bike to help with training and quicklydiscovered that constant pedaling for four hours adds up to some intensechafing on the inner thighs. Do you know of anything that would cutdown on this woeful condition?
--Devin
Dear Devin,
Sportslick perhaps?
--Lennard
Follow-up on long cranks
Dear Lennard,
I was reading your online column and noticed that you had a bike with202 mm cranks. Are these Mtn. bike cranks or road cranks? Wheredoes one find cranks this length?
--Bill
Dear Bill,
I have 202s on one road bike, 200s on another, 187s on another, and180s on the fourth.
Check out my Web site, www.zinncycles.com.Since I cater to such tall riders, we offer them in lengths up to 220mmin both road and mountain versions.
--Lennard